Eastern Europe (August 2021)

Click here for the full map of the route...

 

Traveling in the years of the pandemic...!!! Covid has changed all our lives and has certainly greatly affected our travels around the planet. In the summer of 2020, it was quite difficult to think about traveling because the possible quarantine hanging like a sword of Damocles over our heads in case you crossed the borders of a country prevented me from traveling! There are always plans in my mind, but even 2021 didn't seem as good to me as I would have liked... I had planned to cross the Trans-Siberian on my motorcycle, from Patras (Greece) to drive to Moscow (Russia) and from there to cross Siberia and arrive after 9,000 kilometers in Vladivostok... But Russia had other plans and until June 2021, access to the country was only allowed by air! So, I put it off with a heartache and followed Plan B…

 

Czech Republic, Poland and Romania were my alternative plan. I had been to the Czech Republic three times in the past, to Poland six times and to Romania more than twenty... But my purpose was to travel to places I had never been before. The most kilometers of the trip would be on the part of Poland bordering Germany. The trip lasted almost a month and I covered 7,700 wonderful kilometers on my motorcycle. The routes for the most part were on backroads, through small villages and I found myself in Medieval castles, in historic churches, in lakes, rivers, mountains, mountain passes and also in water channels in the Masurian lakes...

 

Rider’s Log…

 

1^st Day    31/7/2021          Patras (Greece) – Zrenjanin (Serbia)   1.130 km

 

            At the end of July after making the necessary preparations I started my solo journey from Patras at 04:00, and following Ionia and Egnatia Highway, I crossed N. Macedonia, and arrived in Zrenjanin, Serbia (72 km north of Belgrade), after 1,130 km driving. In this town live my good friends Ernest and Jelena, who hosted me in their home for the first two days of my trip. It was my fourth time visiting this city and I admit that not much had changed since the first time I was there. You see money does not flow abundantly in Serbia like in the other ex-Yugoslav countries and the development there is slow... The hospitality of my friends is incredible!!!

 

 

 

Useful info of the route to Zrenjanin...

 

At 9:00 I was at the Greek border station of Evzones where there was already a lot of traffic, especially from North Macedonia to Greece. At the border between North Macedonia and Serbia there was a huge queue of cars. I wondered when all these people would make it across the border! I admired their patience...

 

After I entered North Macedonia, the temperature started to rise and on the Serbian highway the temperature ranged from 34°C to 38°C...

 

From Patras to the border station of Evzones I paid €15.60 for tolls and 1.90€ on the Rio-Antirio bridge.

 

In North Macedonia I paid 4€ at 5 toll stations on the highway up to the border with Serbia. They also accept € coins, while in previous years they asked you to give them a 5€ banknote because they didn't accept coins, and they gave you the change in Dinars...

 

In Serbia, as soon as I entered the highway, I took the paper from the first toll station and paid at the exit for Belgrade, 750 RSD that is 6.40€, for about 420 km!!! Perfect system! Like tolls in Italy. Without stopping every now and then like in Greece...

 

 

 

3^st Day     2/8/2021          Zrenjanin (Serbia) – Prague (Czech Republic)  850 km

 

After greeting and thanking my friends for their hospitality, I set off at 07:00 for Prague (Czech Republic). I left Zrenjanin behind and headed towards Novi Sad, to join A1 motorway which took me to the border with Hungary, at the border station of Szeged (160 km). The weather was sunny and morning drive is always pleasant!!! I paid a toll on the Serbian highway for the distance from Novi Sad to the end before Hungary 200 dinars, that is about 1.5€. I passed through Hungary without any problem regarding Covid and while other times after the border I stopped somewhere on the right to get a vignette, this time I declared myself ready! Before starting the trip, I had issued a vignette for Hungary, electronically! It cost me €11.80 for 1 month. It was also the only country I would travel to where the vignette was mandatory. After Budapest on the way to Slovakia there was a lot of traffic. Trucks, vans, cars, everything! I patiently entered in Slovakia, passed out of beautiful Bratislava, and did not stop because I had been there three times before, and continued to Prague. The truth was that I wanted to catch up with the weather which had already started to get cloudy and meteo was predicting rain in Prague after 3 p.m.... Ten kilometers from Prague I got caught in the rain. I arrived at my hotel which was close to the old town and settled into my room having parked my motorbike in the hotel's private guarded parking lot. From now on, it was only walking...

 

I freshened up and got of my hotel to explore the city... Of course, I headed towards the central square of the old town... The cleanliness was something that caught my attention from the beginning! There was no litter underneath and the litter bins on the streets had a special place for cigarette butts! Simple things! Sometimes the obvious is difficult in other countries... As soon as I entered the square, the core of the historic center, I was ecstatic! It is undoubtedly the most impressive square of the city, full of people from morning until late at night. Its history begins in the 11th century, as a meeting point and exchange of products. It is surrounded by impressive buildings of Romanesque and Gothic architecture with pastel colors and inscriptions. My eyes were immediately drawn to the town hall, which was founded in 1338 and is a building of imposing architecture that captivates the eye, especially for its astronomical clock. The clock, which is considered one of the main attractions of the city, announces the time with sounds of bells while at the same time 12 small figures, the Apostles, come out and perform!

 

After having a nice coffee in a cafe across from the astronomical clock and watching with quite a few people the whole show that it gives in full time, I continued my tour and headed to the Charles Bridge that joins the two banks of the Vltava River. 30 statues of saints "parade" along the bridge, with the most "famous" being that of Saint John of Nepomuk. Touching it will… guarantee your next visit to Prague. I also flew my drone and took some shots until I was approached by two polite policemen who told me that it is forbidden...

 

I noticed that in the city there are signs saying that drinking in public is prohibited and there are cameras and in case someone disobeys this prohibition they will be arrested!!!

 

In the evening I looked for a local restaurant where I ate a local dish called Koleno (grilled pork knuckle) accompanied by Czech beer of course...!!!

 

 

 

4^th Day     3/8/2021          Prague (Czech Republic)

 

            The day that dawned brought with it an overcast sky that dropped a drizzle over the city. I had my breakfast at the hotel (Residence BENE) and started with an early morning visit to the central square to fly my drone. I didn't want there to be people, so at 07:30 I was there and took very nice shots over the most central part of the city...

 

I crossed Charles Bridge and found myself on the other side of the city. I started first with a hot coffee because even though it was August the temperature in the mornings was around 12 to 15 degrees C... Then I walked around this part of the city admiring the architecture of the buildings that count many years of life. The drizzle had stopped for some time and many tourists had poured into the streets to discover the city and its beauties. I was in the part of town that is the castle, but I had left that for my last day in town. I looked for Kafka's house-museum on Alchemist Street (Cilhelna). It is a beautiful, extraordinary, Renaissance building, with a decorated facade depicting biblical scenes and imperial figures of the Habsburg dynasty.

 

I crossed back to the old town side of the city and headed towards a monument designed by the artist David Czerny to a huge rotating head of Franz Kafka, which is located opposite the city hall and near the offices where Kafka worked. It is a bust that weighs 45 tons and rotates with the help of 42 motorized metal layers!!!

 

After doing my artistic search, I looked for the restaurant that would take care of my gastronomic concerns… and I found it on Havelska street, and its name was Havelska Koruna! This is a restaurant where the locals trust its kitchen and it is not "touristic"! During the following days that I stayed in the city I duly honored it. Everything you want from Czech cuisine is there! And the prices are... great and it's very close to the central square of the old town.

 

During my tour of Prague, I found that in public toilets you have to pay 20 coronas (about 0.80€) to serve your need... while in cafes or restaurants they don't let you use the toilet unless you are their customer.

 

 

 

5^th Day     4/8/2021          Prague – Karlovy Vary – Pilsen – Prague      320 km

 

            A beautiful day dawned with a sun that reigned in the Czech sky. The ideal weather for the tour I wanted to do. I had my breakfast, got on my motorbike and left Prague for the most famous spa town in Europe, Karlovy Vary. Just 130 kilometers west of Prague, close to the border with Germany is this spa town, at the confluence of two rivers, the Ochre and Tepla. Its population amounts to 48,500 inhabitants. I parked my motorcycle and started to walk beside the river between the colorful buildings that surround it on the right and left. It looks more like a big canyon where there is a river, houses and above them dense vegetation.

 

The main reason tourists visit Karlovy Vary is its 12 hot springs. In addition to the 12 springs, it has another 300 smaller ones as well as the river Tepla with hot streams of water.

 

The most famous attraction for Karlovy Vary is the Imperial Infirmary, Mill Colonnade. Built in 1881 by the Czech architect Josef Zítek, this building is spread over 2 levels, with tall columns and a Neo-Renaissance design and houses many of the spa town's hot springs. Also, on the main pedestrian street I found myself in front of the impressive Market Colonnade, a building for an outdoor market with a wooden colonnade, built in the Swiss style. The Karlovy Vary Theater is a truly imposing building, with even more impressive interior decoration.

 

I took the cable car up to the Diana tower built in 1914 to admire the amazing view it offers due to its altitude. And of course, I went to the Grandhotel Pupp, where the James Bond movie Casino Royal was filmed... Unfortunately, Daniel Craig wasn't there to have a drink, but the interior of the hotel left me speechless!!! Rich with capital letters!

 

Of course, I tried the classic round handmade wafer Karlovarské oplatky which they make in front of you. It's worth a try... Also before leaving Karlovy Vary, I tried the famous local liqueur Becherovka, which is also sold at special stands in the city and is made from herbs and spices. As travelers we have to try it to make our own opinion on it!!!

 

After getting a good taste of Karlovy Vary, I hopped on the motorbike and made my way to Pilsen (or Plzen), just 83 kilometers southeast of Karlovy Vary. The speed limit in urban centers is 50 km/h and everyone strictly respects it. On motorways the limit is 130 km/h, while on provincial roads it is 90 km/h. After a while I found myself in Pilsen, the city where the famous blonde beer Pilsner was born in 1842 and the car manufacturer Skoda in 1859. I parked in the central square, secured my stuff and the motorcycle and started walking around the city. A city with a population approximately the same as that of Patras (200.000). The huge Freedom Square, Namesti Republiky, is dominated by the Gothic cathedral of St. Bartholomew with the highest bell tower in the Czech Republic at 102 meters. To the northeast of the square stands out the yellow building that houses the Brewery Museum, while to the south you will find the Franciscan monastery where the Museum of Western Bohemia is housed. In the west part of the square is the Great Synagogue, the third largest in the world after that of Jerusalem and Budapest, built in 1892 in Moorish style. The square is surrounded by ornate baroque and renaissance houses that set a very beautiful site. After walking quite a bit in the city center, and taking some shots with my drone and taking several photos as well, I sat down in a beer bar for a snack and to taste the famous beer of the city!

 

Late in the afternoon I returned to my hotel in Prague… Luckily the weather seemed kind enough to me and didn't get me soaked. I freshened up and went for a walk on the main pedestrian street Na Příkopě. Locals and tourists flooded the wide pedestrian street lined with shops. I sat down to enjoy a coffee and observed the carefree people walking around this busy pedestrian street. I also did my shopping and later enjoyed a soup at the very good restaurant Lokal which was very close to my hotel. Beer was standard. After all, wherever we travel, we must choose local products!

 

A few words about my hotel, Resideense Bene. It was a very good choice, because the room was excellent, clean and the property has a private parking space for the motorcycle. It was only 700 meters from the old town square and in a few minutes, I had access to all the points of interest. I could describe its breakfast as good, not excellent, and it cost me €45 a day. On a scale of 10, I would give it an 8.5. It is a very good choice!

 

 

 

6^th Day     5/8/2021          Prague (Czech Republic)

 

            A foggy day with light rain dawned in Prague... After having my breakfast, I walked around the streets of the city. It was my last day in the Czech capital and I was scheduled to visit Prazsky Hrad, Prague’s Castle. I walked to the Charles Bridge which I crossed to find myself on the left bank of the Vltava River. I had a coffee and from there I continued the uphill street that led me to the outskirts of the castle. I walked up the cobbled path and found myself high up outside the castle looking out over Prague. The castle holds a Guinness record! According to Guinness, it is the oldest castle complex with such a large area. It is 570 meters long and 128 meters wide!!! It covers an area of seven football fields!

 

The castle has always been the seat of the monarchs of the region and is the most popular attraction in Prague. Crowds of people had gathered in the square in front of the castle to enter and explore its interior. At some point the military band came out and started playing... It was time for the changing of the guards. I also watched the spectacular ceremony with the crowd and a little later I went inside paying a ticket of 10€.

 

Of course, luxury reigned everywhere I looked. Upon entering the castle, I found myself in front of the impressive cathedral of Agios Vitos. Everywhere I looked inside it left me speechless. The castle and cathedral are must-see attractions when visiting Prague.

 

After I finished my tour of the castle grounds I descended again towards the old town of Prague. I had to buy a mask and a bottle of water. The Chinese own several small stores (something like a mini market) and the prices they sold these items were three times higher than the Super Market prices!!! I finally ended up in a grocery store and bought what I needed at their normal price. When I wasn't in Chinese and I complained to a Chinese girl that she was selling them to me quite expensive, she started haggling with me by lowering the price!!!

 

At noon I went to eat again at the Havelska Koruna restaurant and tried different dishes of the Czech cuisine than the ones I ate last time. Perfect!!! After this gastronomical delight I went to the hotel for a midday nap and in the afternoon fresh I went for a coffee on the Na Příkopě pedestrian street. After the pleasure I took one last walk in the old town and late at night I ended up at the Lokal restaurant, a few meters from my hotel for a soup and Czech beer... How I love these moments!!! To be in a restaurant, where locals relax with friends after the end of a routine day...

 

 

 

7^th Day     6/8/2021          Prague – Kutna Hora (Czech Republic)   83 km

 

A beautiful day dawned with the temperature that morning being at 14 to 15º C... I had my breakfast after checking out at the hotel. I loaded my motorbike and got on for a short ride to Kutna Hora, 83 km east of Prague. Maybe some of you will wonder why I didn't stop in Kutna Hora first and then go to Prague, since I would meet her before Prague. So, when I was booking the hotels, I went to the Sedlec site that I wanted to visit in Kutna Hora and saw that it would be closed on that day... So, I decided to go to Prague first and then backtrack a bit to go to Kutna Hora...

 

The exit from Prague was a bit of a maze although the GPS didn't go wrong anywhere. You just need a little more time than usual, even if there is even more traffic... So, my GPS (BMW NAVI 5) was starting to give me incredible information about the flow of the road! He gave me information that on the highway I was driving, 10 km in front of me, there was an immobilized vehicle due to a breakdown!!! Also, info about traffic jams that I would encounter etc!!! I can't say I didn't like this information…

 

When I started my trip from Prague at 08:30 the temperature was 14ºC. The journey was short. Around eleven o'clock I arrived in Kutna Hora and sat in the town square for a coffee and to see its people. After enjoying the moments, I left for my hotel, Zlata Stoupa, which I recommend. The room was good with private parking. I would rate his breakfast an 8/10 while the price was €48.

 

Kutna Hora, a town with 20,000 inhabitants was a surprise! I believe that most people think that it is known because of the Ossuary, Sedlec Ossuary but it has a lot of beauties and sights to show!

 

So, I started my tour from Sedlec. The distance from the center of Kutna Hora is only 2 km. First, I visited the Catholic Church of the Dormition of the Virgin and St. John the Baptist. It is a Gothic style building that was erected around 1300 and is included in the Unesco list as a World Heritage Site. The interior of the church and its decoration is quite impressive! After a short tour of the interior of the church, I left for the ossuary which was on my travel bucket list. It is only 300 meters from the church and in the middle of the distance I got a ticket to enter the Ossuary. I paid 90 korunas (about 3.50€) and arrived at the entrance of the old cemetery that houses the chapel with the Ossuary. Going inside, the lady checking the tickets told me that video recording and photography is prohibited…

 

Stepping inside, you discover the reason why this small church in the central Czech Republic is distinguished by an astonishing uniqueness worldwide. It is not the most common thing in the world for a church to be masterfully decorated with more than 40,000… human skeletons!

 

The history of the creation of the "Bone Church" is of great interest. In 1278 the king of Bohemia sent Bernardino as abbot of the local monastery in the Holy Land. Returning to Shedlets, he brought with him a container of soil from Mount Golgotha. After he spread the "holy soil" in the monastery cemetery, word of mouth spread, and the place became a very popular… burial place.

 

Tens of thousands of victims of the plague epidemic that ravaged Europe in the 14th century were buried there, as well as those who died from the Crusades. The cemetery, however, had to be expanded. Thus, in the 15th century a Gothic church was erected next to the cemetery and its basement was used as an ossuary, where the thousands of leftover human bones formed pyramidal piles.

 

So, in 1870 the woodcarver Francisek Reed was entrusted with the task of arranging the countless macabre piles. He put all his imagination and the result of his work was a way of decorating the entire chapel that more than 150 years later remains memorable! I will specifically mention the huge chandelier, which is said to include all the bones of the human skeleton, at least once each!

 

The Ossuary of Sedlec is today the second most visited tourist attraction in the Czech Republic, attracting over 200,000 visitors annually!

 

'When I finished my visit to the ossuary, I went back for a coffee in the main square of Kutna Hora. The city became, after Prague, the second most important city in the Kingdom of Bohemia, thanks to the silver mines which remained open for 250 years. Today it is just a small provincial town with just over 20,000 inhabitants. There are many beautiful Gothic churches to see, such as the Cathedral of St. Varvara (1388 to 1565) which is one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings, the Italian Court (Vlašský dvůr) with the Royal Mint where the famous Prague grosies were minted (at that time they were the hard currency of Central Europe), the Stone House , the church of Agios Iakovos, etc. In 1995, Kutna Hora was declared a world cultural heritage site and is now protected by UNESCO. Currently the town benefits from tourists and Philip Morris tobacco factory. Of all the sights, I was impressed by the church of St. Barbara!!!

 

The city welcomes tourists and is quite homely and clean, while most of the buildings are renovated and look very nice with their bright colors. Meanwhile, contrary to the country's history, Kutna Hora is a wine-producing town, and its wine competes equally with the beer in the town's breweries…

 

I had very good dinner at Pivnice Dacicky, which has a beautiful inner courtyard, and its local cuisine will impress you as it did me. Beyond that, however, there are other restaurants and coffee bars that will seduce your palate...

 

I only stayed one day in this small town, but a second wouldn't have spoiled me at all! It has several attractions and my stay there was quite pleasant.

 

 

 

8^th Day     7/8/2021        Kutna Hora – Liberec (Czech Republic) – Ksiaz Castle (Poland) – Swidnica – (Zagan (PL)   400 km

 

After a very good night sleep, I ate a very good breakfast at my hotel, and after checking out I loaded my motorcycle to continue our exploration... Before I left Kutna Hora though, I enjoyed a coffee in its main square, together with the locals enjoying the beautiful day that had dawned with a good breakfast and coffee!

 

After soaking up the moments I got on my motorcycle and left towards north with the first stop being Liberec, which was the hometown of a friend and fellow traveler of mine who passed away too early, Kostas (aka Doc). I was 115 kilometers away from Liberec and I traveled through a country road (38) in a green landscape and shortly before the town of Mlada Boleslav I followed Road 10 to Liberec. I arrived in the city before noon and sat next to the City Hall to drink a coffee. The City Hall is in the central square and the building is very impressive!

 

The good weather, with a temperature close to 20°C, predisposes you to enjoy the Polish countryside on your motorcycle! I departed from Liberec leaving my memories with my friend and fellow traveler Kostas behind, following Road 14 and then Rd 10 I reached the Czech-Polish border and headed towards Jelenia Gora. The awesome landscape lifted me up. I entered Poland which would also be the "main course" of my trip and after passing Jelenia Gora following Rd 3, I arrived at Ksiaz Castle, the jewel of southern Silesia, which was my next stop. The castle is in a protected area and is very imposing as it is built on a majestic rock overlooking the river Pelcznica.

 

The castle was the residence of the famous Hochberg family. When the Nazis occupied it in WWII, they built several underground tunnels which have not yet been fully explored and there is a rumor that the Nazi gold train is hidden and buried in the area...

 

I bought a ticket to visit the interior of the castle (45 Zloty –>10€). I wouldn't say it was cheap... I wandered around its interior and after being filled with images of how lavishly the Hochberg family lived, I went out into the courtyard and flew my drone for some aerial shots of the castle.

 

After completing my visit to Ksiaz Castle I continued to the next attraction which was just 18 kilometers west of where I was. I followed the provincial road 35 and in a few minutes through a beautiful route I was in the courtyard of the Church of Peace which was built in 1657. The largest wooden church, it is on the World Heritage List of Unesco. It was built after the Peace of Westphalia agreement which ended the Thirty Years' War. That's why it got the name Church of Peace...

 

The 1090 m² church can accommodate 7500 people!!! The interior of the church is impressive with the huge church organ standing out from the rest of the decoration. The exquisite 18th century wooden altar dominates the baroque interior. The relief above the altar stone shows the Last Supper while above the relief stand sculpted figures of Moses, the high priest Aaron, Jesus, John the Baptist and the apostles Peter and Paul. The central scene between the figures shows the baptism of Christ in the Jordan River. A girl musician, the whole time I was inside the temple was in the center and played church music with her cello. It was definitely worth going all the way there to visit this huge wooden structure!!!

 

It was late in the afternoon, and I had to decide where to spend the night. My original plan was to stay in Zielona Gora but it was 200 km NW from where I was and I wanted to visit the villages of Zagan and Zary which were on my way as well... My original plan was very ambitious... Therefor I decided to cover the 130 km route to the village of Zagan and find an accommodation there. So, I took the provincial Rd 382 which took me through a beautiful route to Legnica and from there I joined the A4 motorway which took me to Zagan. I didn't have too much trouble finding accommodation there even though it was a Saturday. Willa Park Hotel (33€ with breakfast) that hosted me this evening, is a large building with many rooms and is tucked into the greenery of the Polish countryside. That night, there was on a reunion of classmates whose age was over 50, and dj was playing music from 80's. Perfect night!!!

 

9^th Day     8/8/2021        Zagan (PL) - Zary - Szczecin       60 km

 

At night it rained but in the morning the sky was clear and everything was fine! The temperature was close to 14°C and the day looked set to deliver another beautiful motorcycling experience! I took my breakfast at the hotel and slowly loaded my stuff in the panniers of my motorcycle to head north…

 

In Zagan in the years of the 2nd WWII the nazis had a prisoners of war camp. This area underwent a lot of pain... Poland suffered a lot during World War II! So, on my way I saw several monuments that emphasized the involvement of the region in the events of the war. I followed the provincial road 12 and after 15 kilometers through a beautiful route I arrived at the village of Zary which I had read was very beautiful. It was a Sunday morning and there weren't many people on the streets. Many were in the churches. The shops were closed, and I looked for a cafe open to start my day with a coffee. Unfortunately, I didn't find one so I left for Szczecin which would be my base for the next two days.

 

Following the Rd27 I relatively quickly covered the 45 kilometers that separated Zary from Szczecin. I was already in the region of Pomerania, in the western part of Poland, and I was driving almost parallel to the border with Germany. The green landscape in Poland dominates the entire territory and its magnificent forests cover a large percentage of the country. So, the routes in Poland are almost always green. Pure enjoyment on the motorcycle!!!

 

I arrived in Szczecin shortly after 12 and my GPS led me to Hotel Victoria (35€ with breakfast) which also has a private parking lot. The city with a population of approximately 400,000 inhabitants until 1945 belonged to Germany and in Greek is known as Stettino. Szczecin has been called the Paris of the North!

 

I got settled in my room, freshened up, grabbed my backpack with my GoPro and DSLR camera and went out on to explore the city. I headed downtown. All along the way I noticed that the city shone with cleanliness like all the places I found in Poland. Some of the buildings had already regained their freshness from the abandonment of the past while some others had begun to receive the care of people to acquire the luster of the past.

 

Have you ever seen an iceberg in a city? The Concert Hall of Szczecin caught my eye when I was in the area! Flashes flash continuously in the sharp glass building created by architects Barozzi and Veiga. Inspired by the sloping roofs of the city, when lit up at night, it looks like a shining diamond.

 

Another attraction worth visiting is the cemetery, which is the third largest in the world. A vast expanse, a magical setting, eerie and heavenly at the same time.

 

The castle is the mother of all Szczecin monuments. This huge, square building dominates the Old Town. The castle was originally built in the mid-14th century and developed into its present form by 1577 but was destroyed by Allied forces bombing in 1944 before being extensively restored.

 

A walk by the Oder River relaxed me and I headed to the Stara Komenda Brewery right next to my hotel to calm down my stomach needs! My choice was very good and I highly recommend it to those who will visit the city!!!

 

 

 

10th day 9/8/2021 Szczecin (PL) – Pasewalk (GER) - Anklam (GER) – Zinnowitz (GER) –

 

Swinoujscie (PL) - Szczecin (PL) 270 km

 

            The reason I stayed two days in Szczecin was that I wanted to do the route along the Baltic Sea coastline on either side of the German and Polish borders. A narrow strip of land encloses a large part of the Baltic between the borders of the two countries!

 

After having my breakfast at the hotel, I got ready and shortly before 9 a.m. I departed riding my motorcycle towards the border with Germany, which was only 14 kilometers from Szczecin. The route through country road 10 took me into German territory. The scenery was starting to get dreamy before I entered Germany and it just kept getting better and better. Once I entered Germany, I continued on the Rd. 104 until the village of Pasewalk. The small German villages made up a fairytale setting. In Pasewalk I sat down in a cafe-pastry shop I found on my way and enjoyed a coffee and a pastry! My pleasure for this scenery kept growing and I began to look forward to the places my bike would take me that day! The enjoyment of coffee and dessert came to an end and Rd 109 took me through a wonderful route to Anklam. I continued on the country road and passing the villages of Rubkow and Zemitz I reached Wolgast and followed the country road 111 which led me to the village of Zinnowitz where this narrow strip of land that was wetted by the Baltic began. So that was the beginning of what I wanted to see. I could say, however, that just the distance I covered up to there had already compensated me with its beauty!!! The road L266 got me close to the beach and led me to the German-Polish border and Polish town of Swinoujscie. This whole area is a holiday spot for German and Polish people. This coast offers them a perfect place for their summer vacation. Quite touristy and crowded on that August day. There was a crowd which was partly due to the previous curfew due to Covid. People were tired of the quarantine and thirsty to get out into normality. Of course, there was no comparison between the shores of the Mediterranean and this one, but that's what they have and what they live! The area full of rentals and people walking around in their swimsuits to enjoy the sun and the sea...

 

            I crossed the border line and re-entered Poland heading for Swinoujscie. The scene hasn't changed at all. I used the ferry to continue to Swinoujscie. The asphalt throughout the route was excellent and here I must note that I didn’t refuel in Germany because the price of the gas was more expensive than in Poland.

 

I arrived in Swinoujscie and my goal was to find the lighthouses which are one of the city's attractions. Many water channels enter the land, and you need to use the ferry to cross to another piece of land. I'm talking about distances of half a nautical mile... I noticed that no one pays on the ferry and I concluded that the goverment must offer free travel since it had not built bridges!!!

 

The first lighthouse is located on the island of Wolin and with a height of 75 meters it is the tallest lighthouse in the Baltic. I stood in front of him and flew my drone to film it. After I finished, I continued to Fort Aniola which was built in 1850 and served defensive purposes during WW2. After visiting the fortress, I walked (a distance of 1.5 km) to the Stava Mlyny lighthouse which is shaped like a windmill and is a trademark of the area. The lighthouse serves as a signal for vessels entering the port of Świnoujście, from the Baltic Sea.

 

After I finished sightseeing in the area I got my feet wet in the Baltic waters. After that I ended up in the center of Swinoujscie for a snack and a beer before my way back to Szczecin. At 3 p.m. I got on the bike and left Swinoujscie behind to return to Szczecin. I crossed again on the ferry on the other side, which I used a total of 3 times. Whichever way I went to board there was a queue of cars for at least 2-3 km. A torture for drivers. Luckily it wasn't hot! The temperature ranged from 20º to 22ºC.

 

On my way back to Szczecin I spent the first 30 kilometers following Rd 3 which then became S3 and was a motorway. (Swinoujscie – Szczecin 105km)

 

 

 

11th Day    10/8/2021 Szczecin – Gdansk – Tczew – Malbork 426 km

 

This day was the most difficult of the trip! After Szczecin I would go to Gdansk, but I hadn't booked a hotel there because I first wanted to do the tour I did the day before in Swinoujscie and then I thought I would find a hotel in Gdansk. I had already made a pre-selection of 5 hotels so when I would arrive in Gdansk I would look for a room in them... But...

 

I left Szczecin early in the morning as the weather forecast predicted rain in Szczecin after 10:00 a.m. and rain in Gdansk after 13:00, in the afternoon. So I took the Highway S6 in the direction of Gdansk. I had calculated that I wanted four hours but... I drove the first 160 kilometers on the S6 Highway and the remaining 200 km on the provincial E28 which had a speed limit of 90 km/h and 50 km/h when passing through urban centers and villages... On my way through urban centers and villages there was a lot of traffic and in many places there was a traffic jam. Time was running slow! But the biggest horror was when I arrived 20 kilometers before Gdansk where the traffic jam was unbelievable!!! I was twenty kilometers away from the city and nothing was moving! It was 13:30 when I reached the city. At this point I should mention that initially I wanted to go through the city of Gdynia which is located 20 kilometers north of Gdansk but to avoid traffic due to summer (it’s very touristic area), I preferred the route I mentioned above... When I arrived in Gdansk, I checked the first hotel of the ones I had chosen during the preparation of the trip I made before leaving Greece. I arrived at the 4th hotel on the list and I hadn't found a room... The receptionists were calling other hotels in the area to see if they could find me a room there but there was none available... and for the rooms that were available they were asking for over €200 a night and I had in mind to stay 3 nights there... Prohibitive amount! So, I went to the center and putting my GPS on hotels I looked for my luck this way... And there was no luck! Almost all the hotels were fully booked and the ones that had available rooms were available at an outrageous price! In the meantime, I noticed that there were a lot of tourists in the city and to a question I asked a receptionist, she answered that a 15-day exhibition of local products was on in the city and that was one of the reasons why there were all these people! Serious defeat!!! At the last hotel I went to the receptionist asked me what my plan was and after I answered her she recommended me to move SE and, on my way, I would find the city of Tczew where she used to work in a hotel and there I would find accommodation... I strolled around Gdansk , which is a very beautiful city and after I made up my mind that I will go there sometime in the future... I hit the road again towards Tczew. This town was on my way to Malbork and it was only 40 kilometers away from Gdansk.

 

Half of the road was on a country road and the other half on a highway. I arrived at the hotel recommended by the receptionist in Gdansk at six in the afternoon, and there again was a female receptionist. Kind too, she told me that they were full too and offered to get other accommodation in the area but there was no luck... A guy who had seen the motorcycle outside the hotel and had entered the lobby shortly after me, a fan of traveling on a motorcycle, saw me and after asking me about my journey, he asked me where I was going after Tczew. I replied that since I couldn't find a room there, I would go to Malbork, where my next stop would be, to look for a hotel. He then called an accommodation in Malbork from his cell phone and after greeting and thanking them I got back on my tireless motorcycle to continue this difficult day... The time had reached 18:30, hunger and fatigue had started to bother me, and time passed without being able to find a hotel to stay in to solve my issues...

 

Malbork was only 21km away and on the road, I found another hotel where I stopped and asked but it was also full! I continued on the road, arrived in Malbork, looked for and found the accommodation that the guy in Tczew had recommended to me but there was nothing available either... The lady in charge made 8 phone calls and on the eighth she found an available room for me!!! It was her last attempt! So, the accommodation we found was 3km outside of Malbork in Kamionska and it was a farmhouse spread over a large and very well-kept plot of land, and it was Super Duper!

 

Relieved I settled there and after I took some rest, I left again for Malbork to solve another issue of mine, dinner! The restaurant recommended to me by the owner of the accommodation where I stayed was located directly across from the city's castle. After ordering a delicious dinner, first soup of course and then a main course, I took a look at the weather for the next day and saw that it would be rainy. So, I decided to fly my drone at that moment and take some shots of this beautiful 13th century castle that is on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Even though it was eight in the evening, the light was very good, and the shots were great! I enjoyed my dinner and went back to my room to rest.

 

In the yard I found a Polish family who had sat with the owner and they were talking casually while drinking a liqueur made by the mother of the family. They treated me and we started talking with the poor English that the father knew and the little bit more that the son knew. They asked me where I was from and about my journey. I expressed to them my admiration for their country's leaps and bounds in the years I have been traveling there and we found ourselves discussing how Covid has affected our lives and almost all Polish people have taken vacation because they felt the need to escape the confines of the house. They themselves were from Szczecin and I told them that a few days ago I was in their city. We had fun  talking and I drank four shots of their liqueur and went to rest my tired body from the suffering of the day which was quite adventurous. I also booked a hotel in Torun where I would be staying the next day and then I slept…

 

I had decided that if I couldn't find a place to stay there, I would go to the police station in town and tell them that I was a traveler and couldn't find a place to stay, maybe they would find me a place to stay. I pretty much spent my night in a cell...

 

 

 

12^th Day     11/8/2021        Malbork – Ostroda (Elblag Canal) - Torun    290 km

 

In the morning when I woke up I saw that it was raining. I loaded up my motorcycle which was patiently waiting for me in the parking lot, put on my raincoats and set off at 7:30 in time to go on the Elblag Canal tour. I took first the provincial road 22 and then the S7 highway which led me 3km before Ostroda. I got there 20 minutes before 10:00 a.m., and immediately went and bought a ticket for the tour in Elblag Canal. I paid 72 Zloty (16€) and the price included the return from Milomlyn back to Ostroda where I boarded to the boat.

 

At 10 o'clock the boat departed to tour the Mansurian lakes. This specific tour was recommended to me by my friend Giorgos Cholevas during a mountain excursion in Grammeni Oxia (Greece). This information exchange between travelers is pure gold!!! The tour was fantastic! For 2.5 hours our boat sailed through the water channels of the lakes and took us through fairytale landscapes. Whole forests in the water and we can cross them and observe the greatness of nature! The boat entered a water cage twice to gain altitude so that it could continue its voyage to the next lake. Unfortunately, this tour did not include the passage from lake to lake with the boat crossing the land on train tracks... As a traveler I say, “we leave something for next time”!

 

I met the captain, and we had a conversation about the difficulties of crossing these lakes through narrow passages. Also, I met Elzbieta who was a member of the crew which consisted of the captain, Elzbieta and one other. She was telling me about her life in London and how she ended up being a crew member on a boat in a relatively isolated place. Life needs struggle and smile, and my new friend had both! Unfortunately, I could not fly my drone from the boat because both the bow part of the ship and the shed were covered. So, I took some nice shots with the GoPro and with my camera countless photos.

 

After this beautiful experience I returned, like the rest of the passengers, to Ostroda and started heading for the city of Torun without wearing raincoats, since the sun was high in the sky and the clouds had cleared up. I followed the provincial road 15 all the way with the known problems of the speed limit and its passage through villages and arrived in Torun at 15:30. I got settled in my hotel, freshened up, and went out for a walk to get to know the city of Copernicus. A city with a population of 200,000. It was founded in 1231 by a Teutonic Order and in Poland it is also called "Krakow of the North" to emphasize its beauty. The city was not destroyed by bombing during WWII and the unique Gothic atmosphere that exudes at every step is the main attraction. Huge Gothic Cathedrals and the old City Hall catch the eye of every visitor to the city. I wandered in the central square of the city but also in the main pedestrian streets and of course I took several photos at the statue of Copernicus located in the central square of the old city. Then coffee and dinner completed this beautiful day that I lived.

 

 

 

13th day 12/8/2021 Torun - Poznan 185 km

 

14th day 13/8/2021 Poznan

 

Hotel Filmar where I stayed in Torun was 4 stars and was about a kilometer away from the historic city center and everything about my stay there was great! Only they charged 10€ for breakfast which I didn't get. In such cases I go to the Super Market or bakeries and buy goodies for the next day's breakfast! Cheaper and tastier!

 

I loaded up my motorcycle again, which was patiently waiting for me and we set off for Poznan. We had a short distance to cover, and I was quite relaxed. I took the provincial Rd 15 to Ivo Inowroclaw and from there the Rd 251 to Barcin and Znin, a distance of 85 kilometers. From Znin I entered the S5 highway and easily covered the last 100 km.

 

I arrived in Poznan leisurely, close to 12 noon. Check-in at the apartment I had booked was at 2 in the afternoon and in my communication with the owner we arranged for it to be ready shortly after 12 so that I could leave my things, freshen up and start getting to know the city. The front door of the building had a code to open it and typing the code the owner had sent me in an SMS I entered the entrance where there were deposit boxes where in the number 5 box was inside the key for my apartment. Putting in a second code she had sent me through SMS I got the key and went up to the third floor where my room was. Most of these Apartments are old houses that have been converted into self-contained apartments with a shared kitchen and dining area. The room was spacious, high ceiling (like the old houses were built), bright and the addition of the bathroom was the fresh new thing in the space. In one corner was an old heating system, a huge metal thing that looked like an old stove. The room was renovated, but he had also kept an old wardrobe and a sideboard for the decor... It was perfect! The owner had arranged for me for 30 Zloty a day, one parking spot in an open but guarded outdoor parking lot where I left my motorbike after locking it first. I arranged my things in my room, took a bath and after taking my photography equipment I went down for my first acquaintance with the old town (Stare Miasto).

 

Poznan, a city of 600,000 inhabitants (the 5th largest city in Poland), is green with large flower-filled parks, spotlessly clean and bright! The renovated and well-maintained buildings give a sense of development and at the same time the city offers its visitors a pleasant stay.

 

My walk through the old town was a dream. Colorful houses attached to each other, called POZNAŃ KAMIENICZKI, adorn the stone-built alleys. Itinerant musicians and all kinds of artists pleasantly distract the visitor. It all starts at the Old Market Square (Stary Rynek), where the old town hall is located, which is a beautiful building from the 16th century. So, from there I started my tour of the city. The colored houses that I mentioned above surround the square and give a special color to its cobbled floor. The square is decorated with statues such as Poseidon and Orpheus among others. In one part of the square there were stalls selling food from other European countries in an attempt to promote them.

 

I visited the St. Martin's Croissant Museum and tried the famous Rogale SwietoMarcinskie croissant. It is filled with cream, poppy seeds, nuts and fruits. I paid 10 Zloty (about €2) for it and the experience was worth it! At the time of this writing, I am in a cafe in front of the old city hall waiting for 12 o'clock to see the scene with the famous clanging of the horns of two goats on the top of the building. This is a custom that takes place every day at 12 noon and is based on a legend. According to it, during the inauguration of the new Town Hall clock in the 16th century, a young cook accidentally burnt the food he was preparing for the official guests... The solution was found in his mind, so he went to the neighboring field to bring two goats he saw, to slaughter them and prepare a new food. But the goats escaped and found themselves in the hall of the town hall in front of the surprised eyes of the guests, dueling with their horns... and that's how this legend began!

 

A great number of people assembled, and when the belfry struck 12 at noon two gates were opened, and with a mechanism Pyrek and Tyreke emerged and blew their horns 12 times as many as the chimes. At that moment the cameras “got on fire” to capture the show...

 

After watching the show of the two animals, I left on foot (2 kilometers from the old city) to go to Citadel Park. In the cities, of course, we walk a lot, because otherwise you cannot get to know the city or the place you are visiting. A sunny day, with the temperature close to 20ºC, was all I needed to find myself in this huge park, which occupies 89 hectares of land and is located N of the city, on Winiary Hill. The park offers to the residents of the city, long walks in a green setting in which there is an abundance of monuments, museums and many urban legends complicate a mystery about the park. I walked far enough into the park to find Magda Abakanowicz's Unrecognized figures (sculptures), which took their place in the park for the first time in 2002, when the city's 750th anniversary was celebrated. 112 headless metal figures, 2 meters high, walk aimlessly.

 

I enjoyed my walk in the park and returned back to the old town and headed to Wroclawska Street to eat Pierogi (dumblings) at Pierozak Pierogarnia. I preferred the ones with the meat filling, and they were delicious!!! Definitely worth a try! I highly recommend them!

 

A visit to the Stary Browary Shopping, Arts & Business Center was imperative... This is how this city center behemoth defines itself! A building on the site of an old brewery which is a total of 130,000 square meters, and was built in November 2003, on Polwiejska Street. Beyond the art galleries, the visitor finds countless shops, restaurants, cafes etc etc...!!!

 

These two days I spent in Poznan were extremely relaxing and I needed them to recharge my batteries for the rest of my trip!

 

The progress and development of Poland has impressed me!!! In the 12 years that have passed since the first time I traveled to this country, I saw a country reforming, developing and progressing in all areas! Everywhere you see there is an orgasm of work, new tram lines are spread throughout the cities to serve the needs of the residents, the centers are decongested by the concentration of vehicles and as a result people's lives become quality. Buildings are renovated and regain the beauty and glamor they had in the past. Industries, facilities and businesses going better and better. The fleet of cars is being renewed and people seem to be enjoying it all! Quality in life!!!

 

 

 

15th day 14/8/2021 Poznan - Wroclaw 190 km

 

16th day 15/8/2021 Wroclaw

 

17th day 16/8/2021 Wroclaw

 

 

 

A new day dawned in Poznan, and it was beautiful! Sunshine and around 15ºC!!! I got my breakfast and got ready to load the bike. After loading it, I sat down in a cafe next to the apartment where I was staying to enjoy a morning coffee. I didn't have many kilometers to Wroclaw. Almost two hours drive...

 

After drinking my coffee, I got on my motorbike and departed... My GPS guided me to the S5 highway that I followed to my next destination. In Wroclaw I booked a hotel near the airport because the previous one I had booked in the city center was canceled by booking.com due to its own mistake and the money I had paid with my card would be returned to me within the next 10 days!!! These things happen in travels too... I booked in the Arche Hotel next to the airport, 10 kilometers away from the center of Wroclaw. The bad thing was that in every move I had to use my motorcycle or to get on a bus (I preferred my moto…). The good thing was that I saw a little more of the city and discovered a Fashion Outlet near the airport... We said... from a setback, something good can come out! We must think positive!!!

 

I arrived midday at my hotel, got settled in my room, freshened up and went down to take the motocycle to go to the city. I got out to the parking lot, and what do I see??? A Ferrari parked next to my motorcycle… I discreetly took my bike from this crap and left discreetly so as not to make the owner of the Ferrari feel bad… I had taken my photos earlier… hahaha!!!

 

The temperature had risen quite a bit and the display on my motorbike was indicating 27ºC!!! Accessing the city was not a problem due to traffic, and I left my bike in the Old Market Square. Next was the central square Rynek where a large part of it is occupied by the old town hall (Stary Ratusz). The Gothic town hall was built in the 13th century and is one of the main landmarks of the city. After strolling the surrounding pedestrian streets from the main square, I set off to the Grunwald Bridge, which connects the two banks of the Oder River. The bridge is a symbol of the city and was built in 1908-1910. Wroclaw, by the way, used to belong to Germany and was called Breslau. The waters of the Oder flowed calmly, and the scenery around its banks was wonderful! There were footpaths and cycle paths along it where one could enjoy a lovely ride! Some had rented boats and took their water ride down the Oder! In the background and not far away could be seen the Cathedral located on the islet of Tumski, in the river...

 

I walked several kilometers and after it started to get dark I took my motorcycle and returned back to my hotel...

 

The next day, it was August 15th a great celebration for Christianity! I woke up early in the morning, at half past six to go to the city and "fly" the drone and take some shots of the Grunwaldski bridge, the Oder River and also the cathedral. I wanted to be there early in the morning so it wouldn't be too crowded, and I wouldn't disturb anyone… I arrived by the bridge, prepared my drone, and when it was about to take off the screen showed the message… No Fly Zone…!!! I had to have a special permit to fly it… So pitty! After yhat, I packed up, got on the motorcycle and I went to Tumski island, to visit the imposing Cathedral of the city, St. John the Baptist. Although it was destroyed several times, it was rebuilt in 1951. Both its exterior and interior are an excellent example of Gothic architecture. A must visit spot for anyone in Wroclaw.

 

I left the cathedral impressed and headed back into the city center and sat outside at a hotel that served coffee as well as breakfast to its customers. It was still quite early in the morning; people were just start their day up and my coffee was essential. A BMW GS was parked next to my motorcycle and its owner was having his breakfast with his wife. We talked a bit with this German couple, took pictures, and they got on their motorcycle to continue their trip in Poland.

 

After enjoying my coffee, I set off for the old slaughterhouses of the city which Tourist Guides mention it as a very good sight. Slaughterhouses (Jatki) were the butcher's favorite "hangout" during the Middle Ages. Now, thankfully, it's an alley with small graphic galleries selling paintings, sculptures and handmade items. Impressive at its central entrance is a bronze composition of animals (rooster, cow, goose, goat, pig), in honor of all the animals slaughtered there.

 

I continued my exploration and reached Pilsudskiego Street where at number 56 I found the sculptures of the Anonymous Pedestrians located opposite the intersection of Pilsudskiego and Swidnicka. Art on the street!!! After all that walk, I went to Bar-Restaurant Choper on Kotlarska Street (Choper Bar & Grill) and tried their BBQ Ribs, in their Polish version and they were delicious! This Bar & Grill is highly recommended as is Pierogarnia in the main square (Rynek 26) for the incredible pierogi it serves!

 

The temperature in Wroclaw hit 30ºC and it was 4pm so I got on my bike and headed back to my hotel for my midday siesta. This was one of the hottest days up to that point in my trip!

 

After refreshing myself a bit, in the afternoon I was back in town to continue my exploration. My hotel was 10 kilometers from the city, but both the long distance and the little traffic didn’t make the transition time-consuming. I drank my afternoon coffee and a little later I found myself strolling along with several other Polish and tourists on the pedestrian streets of the old town. One thing I noticed was that the Zabka minimarket chain has taken over all over Poland and every few meters you come across a store.

 

In those days I stayed in Wroclaw I did not remain inactive in the hunt to photograph as many dwarfs as I could... There are 250 bronze dwarf figurines in various parts of the city! The bronze dwarfs (krasnale or krasnoludki in Polish) are undoubtedly the symbol – and possibly the absolute protagonists – of the city of Wroclaw. They lurk in every corner, play hide-and-seek with passers-by, they may even gossip when we are not looking, but in any case, they are a special surprise. So far, there are only three female dwarves. Minority, but charming. Finding the dwarves and photographing them is like hunting for lost treasure. And they are constantly increasing...

 

They have become so popular that the local tourist office has published a brochure listing all the places where they can be found. However, the dwarf issue began as a form of political protest. They were symbols of the Pomaranczova Alternatyva (Orange Revolution), also known as the "dwarf revolution" in the 1980s, which overthrew the communist regime. When the authorities painted over the anti-government graffiti, the resistance movement responded by painting dwarves over it: The ubiquitous, nameless little guy who resists. The idea was started by the then 39-year-old Waldemar Fydrych, in Wroclaw. As he once stated: "Can you take a policeman seriously when he asks you why you took part in an illegal meeting of dwarfs?"

 

In 2001, in honor of this resistance, a sculpture of a dwarf was placed on Świdnicka Street. That's how it all started. Soon, dwarves began to appear all over the city. And they are so cute and unpredictable, you can't get enough of discovering them and being surprised.

 

The second day of my stay in this beautiful city was over. The third day started with a coffee in the Old Market square and then a walk again to parts of the city that I had not explored. Later in the afternoon I enjoyed my dinner on Pierogarnia's pierogi. This time I tried pierogi baked in the oven with mushroom sauce...

 

After my wonderful dinner, I returned to my hotel for the customary siesta. At noon it also rained briefly, and in the afternoon, I went for shopping therapy at a Fashion Outlet near the airport...

 

 

 

18^th Day       17/8/2021 Wroclaw – Czestochowa – Koszecin - Katowice 341 km

 

In the morning when I woke up I found that it had rained in Wroclaw during the night as well and the weather was still cloudy... I had my breakfast, packed my things, loaded my motorbike and at 07:30 I was already on my way. I didn't wear rain jackets, but at one point while driving on Highway A4, near Opole, I pulled into a gas station and put them on. And it was a good choice because a drizzle started... The A4 highway had a toll so when I entered in it I took the slip and at the exit from it, near Katowice, I paid 8 Zloty (€1.80). A distance of 170-180 kilometers.

 

I left A4 and entered the Motorway A1 which had no tolls heading towards Czestochowa. All the way the road was very good! I arrived at Jasna Gora (Bright Mountain), in Czestochowa where the monastery complex with the Byzantine icon of the Black Virgin is located. This particular spot is visited by millions of believers every year to worship the icon. The temple is huge and impressive and next to where the miraculous icon is located, people had formed a huge queue to pray. I did my tour in the amazingly beautiful monastic area where everywhere were dominated by photos of the late Pope John-Paul II who was Polish.

 

I returned to the parking lot which is located opposite the entrance of the monastery, which is organized and safe, with security who take care of its operation and there is no charge! I got on my motorcycle and left for the village of Koszecin. to meet my cousin Aliki, who lives there and works as a dancer but also teaches Polish folk dances. We met at her school (Slask Song and Dance Ensemble) and I watched the rehearsals that were taking place at that time. Another world! When the rehearsal was over, we went for a coffee with my cousin, her friend Emil and the pianist Janous who was also a motorcyclist. Beautiful and relaxed conversation and the time flew like a bird…

 

I said goodbye to them and left at 16:00 in the afternoon to go to Katowice which was my next stop. 2/3 of the 62 km route was on a country road and the rest on a highway. I arrived at my hotel, the Katowice Economy which must have been built in the 1970s, a Soviet-style building, partially renovated. My room was on the 9th floor, and I had a good view of the city center.

 

I freshened up and left the hotel to explore the city. Katowice is the largest city of the Upper Silesian Industrial Region and has a population of 320,000. Quite a big city you might say! What made a huge impression on me is the ban on cars in the city center! How did they solve it? With the simple solution of the tram! Several tram lines and frequent routes served the residents' access to the center. I even saw a single carriage on a tram line! There are finally solutions for everything!

 

Katowice did not have an old town and historic center like many Polish cities. It is in the shadow of the neighboring and impressive Krakow which is only 80 kilometers away. A city with a strongly industrial past, which is easily distinguished through a walk through its center. Buildings that bear witness to a socialist boom that Katowice experienced due to its coal plants can be found on every corner.

 

I drank my coffee observing the life in the center of the city, I wandered around admiring various sites such as Spodek, a large stadium shaped like a coffee saucer to the Polish people. Next to it is the giant Monument of the Silesian Rebels. The Silesian Theater stands out as you walk down Stanisława Wyspiańskiego. The road took me down the pedestrianized Ulica Mariacka and brought me out in front of the Catholic Church of Our Lady Koscioł Mariacki, which was built in 1860 and is certainly impressive!

 

The time had passed, and I started walking towards the restaurant Zurownia on Ulica Ligonia at number 16. I mention this because it was a pleasant surprise both its food and the place! I chose to eat Kubelele which was 4 "potatoes" in broth, but the "potatoes" were fake and had beef filling. I don't know if I was able to give a picture of what I chose as a main course but I quite liked it! And the waitress understood that I was Greek because two years ago she had been to Lemnos Island(Greece) and worked there for 4 months!

 

After enjoying my dinner, I walked around Katowice by night and after headed to my hotel for night sleep…

 

 

 

19^th  Day 18/8/2021 Katowice-Stary Smokovec(Tatras mountains)–Presov (Slovakia) 300 km  

 

              It was cold in the morning in Katowice, 12°C! I went down to get my breakfast in the hotel dining room, and it was my first experience where I saw on the buffet what I want for breakfast and then ordered it from the waiter. Due to Covid I was not allowed to serve myself... So, I left myself to the kindness of the waiter... I experienced that too!!!

 

I loaded up my stuff on my motorcycle and set off in the direction of Krakow. After a few kilometers the GPS guided me to the A4 motorway which had a toll and just before I left for Krakow I paid 6 Zloty (a little less than €1.5). I passed out of lovely Krakow which I have visited at least 4 times on my previous trips, and continued on the S7 until just before Nowy Targ, and from there I followed the provincial Rd 49 which took me to the Polish-Slovakian border. I preferred this route and not from Zakopane, since I had done this route in the past. So, I crossed the border and found myself on top of the Tatras mountains driving through dreamy landscapes in the direction of Stary Smokovec where I had stayed before and it is a wonderful village in the Tatras mountains. You drive and see the Tatras from the Polish side and then you cross into Slovakia and find yourself on the other side. The Tatras are the natural border between Poland and Slovakia and the routes on these mountains are highly recommended!

 

From the moment I entered Slovakia I noticed that the traffic was particularly increased. It was August and most Slovaks had taken to the streets to take their vacations and escape the curfew that Covid had brought to their lives... So, Stary Smokovec was very crowded, and I couldn't find a single accommodation at a reasonable price to stay... So, I started looking in the neighboring villages but I had no luck there either. I left the Tatras region behind and started to descend towards Presov to seek my luck there... On the way to Presov a light rain forced me to stop under a bridge to put on rain gear and continue. After on-site research on Presov's accommodations, I settled on the Dukla Hotel, which is in the center of the city and had underground safe parking.

 

Presov, a city of 90,000 inhabitants in Eastern Slovakia, wasn’t something to remember. I just chose it out of necessity to spend the night on my way to Romania... But I walked around the city, drank my coffee, and in the evening, I went to eat at Sariska Chiza restaurant and enjoyed the local cuisine. Recommended for anyone in town.    

 

 

 

 20^th Day     19/8/2021  Presov (Slovakia) – Huedin (Romania)   400 km             

 

I woke up in the morning, got ready, took my breakfast and started loading my bike. The day has come to start my tour of Romania! I left Presov at 8 o'clock, and it was cold... The motorcycle's display was indicating 12°C... In the first 100 kilometers that I covered until I reached the border with Hungary, it was a pain in the ass! Driving through country roads with heavy traffic, with a lot of construction going on and a lot of detours... When I entered Hungary, the temperature had risen to 16ºC, and I took the road to Miskolc following the M 30. Construction there too! They were constructing the motorway and had detoured all the traffic onto the side roads. In central and especially in northern Europe, all the works are done in the summer because the winter is heavy and does not allow it... So, since we choose to travel to these places, we have to keep it in mind. I drove in these conditions for another 100 kilometers and after Miskolc and up to Debrecen I followed the M3 and continuing it I reached the border with Romania, at the Oradea border station.

 

My goal for the next day was to cross TransUrsoaia pass, which is in the west part of Romania and for that I had chosen to stay near its northern side, so I had found myself staying in the area near where it started. So as soon as I crossed the border the road took me through Oradea and then to Poieni. The provincial road was the classic Romanian provincial road (not in good condition and heavy traffic)... I covered the 90 kilometers from the border to Poieni with patience and caution as vans and trucks made it difficult to drive fast. It was midday when I arrived in Poieni, which is a small village, and found Casa Alesia Guesthouse which I had booked for the night. I could say that my stay there was pleasant and relaxing.

 

 

 

21^st Day     20/8/2021  Huedin (Romania) - Hunedoara  275 km

 

            During the night, enough moisture had fallen and in the morning the temperature was 13ºC... I drank my coffee, ate a papanasi (a traditional Romanian sweet) and got ready to start to cross the Transursoaia Pass, this unknown pass. It was my first time driving the DN1R. I took the road to Huedin which is the northernmost point of the DN1R and entered the pass. Transursoaia Pass is not as well known as its siblings Transalpina and Transfagarasan but its carving on the Apuseni mountains, the western part of the Carpathians, makes it attractive. Its total length is 80 kilometers and ends in its southern part in the village of Albac. Driving through the Apuseni Natural Park was pure delight! Road (108C), after the village of Calatele, led me to the village of Rachitele to visit the Bride's Veil waterfall. This was a short detour from the pass but well worth a visit for anyone driving to that point. So I reached the end of the paved road, where there were some canteens and there I left my motorcycle to walk 800 meters or so that separated me from the waterfall. And the hike through the forest was beautiful, but also the waterfall was unique, falling from above at different levels. I flew my drone, took some shots and photos I wanted and descended back to my bike to continue on my way. Before departing I sat in the canteen to drink a coffee accompanying by the owner and his son, a very intelligent young man, around 15 years old who knew very good English and also acted as his father's translator.

 

            After this experience I got on my bike and went back to meet DN1R again to continue my route. While the nature was unique the tarmac up to Brad was miserable. After the village of Belis I came across the dam that has been built there, creating Lake Beliș-Fântânele, which blends fantastically into the landscape. I enjoyed the scenery and continued south on the DN1R and a thin strip of water from the lake accompanied me for several kilometers on the right side of the road, and as it stood out through the trees it made the route even more beautiful!

 

From Albac onwards I took the Rd 75, and the Rd 74 A and then after Abrud Rd 74 to Brad. I continued from there on the E79 to Deva and then the Rd 687 to Hunedoara where I had booked accommodation to stay. From Brad only then the E79 road was a track! I arrived in Hunedoara at six in the afternoon and went straight to Corvin Castle which is only 3 kilometers from the city center. I visited the castle which was impressive but the fact that it was under restoration somewhat limited its beauty. It is one of the largest castles in Europe and is designated as one of the Seven Wonders of Romania. It was built in the 14th century and is of the Gothic-Renaissance style. The ticket cost 6€...

 

After I finished my visit, I went back to my motorcycle that I had parked next to the castle, took the drone out of the suitcase, prepared it and took it off to take some shots of this beautiful castle. After completing the cinematic view of my trip, I put the accommodation (Relax Haus) I had booked into my GPS. In Hunedoara, a town of about 50,000 inhabitants, it was not difficult to find it. Finally in 5 minutes I was there. This accommodation was the worst that I stayed in my entire trip and I can say that I put it in the Top 5 of the worst ever!!! Anyway! Shit happens, as long as they don't happen often because then something is wrong with the selection... I took a bath and went out for a coffee. A walked around the city and also my passage earlier on the motorcycle gave me the image of a poor and decadent city. I searched quite a bit to find a restaurant to eat, and finally the one I found was quite crowded and the service was quite slow... The whole package was... terrible! However, if I were in the area again, I would not stay in this city...

 

 

 

22^nd Day       21/8/2021  Hunedoara - Transalpina Pass – Ramnicu Valcea      312 km

 

            I woke up in my shabby room, quickly packed my stuff and quickly loaded my motorcycle. First stop at a gas station in town for a coffee and a croissant...

 

After recovering from the nightmare of my stay, I went back to Corvin Castle to get more shots in the morning light, and from the result I knew I was wise! I finished with my cinematic concerns and started in the direction of Sebes, from where I would start to cross the Transalpina pass. Sebes is on the north side of the pass and my intention was to cross it from north to south. Transalpina Pass (DN67C), also known as the Devil's Path, is 148 kilometers long, starting from Sebes and ending in Novaci or vice versa.

 

From Hunedoara, Sebes was only 55 km away, and from there I headed towards Petresti and started crossing the pass. From the first kilometers the asphalt seemed good to me! I had attempted in mid-April 2014 to cross Transalpina, but there was enough snow and ice that I did not continue. So, it was my first time crossing this pass. The weather was wonderful, and from Petresti onwards the party began... Dense vegetation lined the road, and I entered the gorge where the road snaked between the pine-clad mountains that overshadowed the road. On a tight bend I lost my mind when an SUV came into the bend at high speed, and I thought the car would not keep its course and it would run out of control on me! Luckily, he kept it on line so I was alive to continue my journey!!!

 

At Lake Tau Bistra I stopped on the dam and admired the scenery, took some photos and "took" some footage with the drone. The pass had started to fill up with motorcyclists but also with tourists who wanted to admire the beauty of the route and the landscape. I saw quite a few Hungarian motorcyclists and it was not at all surprising since Romania borders Hungary.

 

I continued towards Lake Oasa and stopped at the dam. Many people had stopped to admire this wonderful scenery and also to buy various goodies from the outdoor kiosks that the hawkers had set up there. I got back on my motorcycle and after Obarsia Lotrului the road started to rise in altitude and the landscape became bare, becoming Alpine. I reached 2,145 meters and on a large plateau there were kiosks for food, coffee and shops with various Romanian local products. There I also met some comrades from Ukraine and we exchanged opinions about the pass as well as about other routes in Romania.

 

The cameras ran out of battery and I plugged the GoPro 9 into the bike's socket to charge it up a bit and get some more footage of the rest of the ride. Indeed, after a few minutes it "came to life" and I was ready to continue filming... Up there, I flew my drone and captured the majesty of the landscape. From that point onwards the descent began, I passed Novaci and when I reached the village of Bengesti I had reached the southern part of the Transalpina and the crossing of the pass came to an end…

 

For me Transalpina is prettier than Transfagarasan and its good tarmac compared to its miserable competitor makes it more attractive to motorcyclists. I think the scenery is superior to that of the Transfagarasan and turning in Transalpina is an endless pleasure! Of course I will cross Transalpina again!

 

Once I was done with the pass I continued to Ramnicu Valcea and once there I crossed it and continued to the village of Milcoiu where I had booked accommodation to stay. When I was looking to book in Ramnicu Valcea the prices had gone high so I preferred Motel Topolog, about 15 km away from Ramnicu Valcea, on the road to Pitesti.

 

So I ended up at Motel Topolog where I paid 20€, and also stumbled upon a wedding party. The feast was not far from our own (Greek) wedding feasts! As you understand for cultural reasons I stayed there…hahaha

 

 

 

23^rd   Day  22/8/2021  Ramnicu Valcea – Cartisoara – Transfagarasan Pass (DN7C) - Pitesti           

 

                                                  300 km

 

At half past seven in the morning I checked out from the hotel. I took the road back to Ramnicu Valcea and from there I took the Rd 7 to go to Sibiu. I wanted to cross Transfagarasan from North to South because last time I crossed it from South to North. Ramnicu Valcea was 115 kilometers from the northern start of the pass. The ride on Rd 7 as I was going north towards Sibiu was very beautiful! The river Olt accompanied the road for several kilometers and the low cloud cover and fog in some places made the route dreamy! I passed out of Sibiu and headed east on the E68 to where it intersected with the Rd 7C, where I turned and took the road to Cartisoara where the pass actually starts.

 

From Cartisoara I could see the massif of the southern part of the Carpathians rising before me. Transfagarasan is the second highest paved road after Transalpina. DN7C’s construction began by the Ceausescu regime in 1970, is 151 kilometers long, and entered service in 1974.

 

From the beginning it appeared that the tarmac was not good... nothing to do with Transalpina! I had crossed this pass in June 2012 and I remembered the route. I started to ascend in altitude and in mood and I was driving quite cautiously because at the curves and especially at their exit I didn't know what I would encounter in terms of road surface. The weather was great and the ride was pure joy! Of course, there was a lot of traffic from motorcycles, but because it was a Sunday, there were many excursionists with cars and they didn't let you enjoy the pass at 100%. So my advice is that whoever wants to cross Transalpina and Transfagarasan should do it not in weekends to enjoy it more.

 

I got to the top, by Lake Balea, after the hair pins and before the tunnel and parked the bike between the parked cars to admire the view, take photos and fly the drone to take some shots from this wonderful landscape. After completing my artistic quests, the lack of caffeine made me think of stopping at the platform, before the tunnel, at the kiosks there but it was crowded with cars and I decided to continue and seek my fortune further down. I noticed that the kiosks with the shops had increased dramatically in number compared to what I had seen 9 years ago.

 

I entered the tunnel and exited on the south side of it having passed the highest point of the pass (2,040 m) and started to descend. Even at the waterfall that is next to the road and we stopped for the standard photo, the parked cars did not allow you to park your motorcycle next to it for a photo, but also the kiosks had made their appearance dynamically at this point. Disappointment! Very commercial!

 

Several motorcycles on the road and we were all stuck between the cars moving on the road... At some point I saw the car in front of me braking and turn on the alarm, without seeing any obvious reason in front of him that would force him to do such a thing. Approaching the place where he was before, on the right side of the road, I saw a baby bear sitting on the right side of the road and calmly observed the traffic!!! It was my first time to see a bear other than on TV... hahaha! A few meters down I met its mom on the right side of the road! Big enough and it made you think what would happen in case she liked your bike or you... Ten kilometers further I met another one... I moved on happy since at the time I met these large mammals the cameras they were on and recorded our meeting.

 

Long before Lake Vidraru I finally stopped for coffee at a Motel-Restaurant-Café on the right side of the road. I've been wanting to drink coffee for quite some time. I ordered a cappuccino but it looked like cappuccino... He must have had something else in mind since the taste was something between cappuccino, Nescafe and Greek coffee together... A jumble of flavors! Anyway! We can't always achieve the best. In the end I drank something of coffee!!!

 

After the curves by Vidraru Lake, I passed Curtea de Arges and continued to Pitesti, to my hotel (Duet Hotel), which I had booked for 20€ with breakfast...

 

At this point I should mention that from the tenth day of the trip onwards I was checking the oil level of the engine, in case it had consumed and needed a refill. No worries though! During the entire trip I didn’t need to refill. It didn't consume any oil.

 

After taking a nap, I transferred the files from my photography equipment to the external hard disk drive, charged all the devices I would be using the next day and at 18:30 I went out for a walk to get to know the city since I was there for the first time. A city of about 160,000 inhabitants, which I found indifferent and its standard of living lower than other Romanian cities I have visited. After the directions from a local I found a nice cafe, enjoyed my coffee after the morning defeat and later on, a nice salad accompanied by live relaxing music helped to close my evening nicely.

 

 

 

24^th Day         23/8/2021                  Pitesti – Πάτρα   1.125 km

 

So, I reached the last day of the trip... Early in the morning I had loaded my stuff on my motorcycle, took my breakfast, and left Pitesti behind following the provincial Rd 65A, which after 150 kilometers led me to the Romanian-Bulgarian border, specifically to Turnu Magurele. The Danube River constitutes the natural border of the two countries on approximately 80% of their borders. I boarded on the ferry and disembarked on the other side, to Bulgaria. Following Rd 34 I reached Pleven and from there I took the E83 and then Highway A2 which took me to the Sofia ring road and then to the A3 motorway which took me to the Bulgarian border with Greece, in Promachonas. I left the Paradise of low temperatures and found myself now driving in 35°C ++… What to do? All good things come to an end at some point! Heads in! Hot with sweat running through the jacket…

 

After an uneventful trip to Egnatia and Ionia Highway, I arrived late in the afternoon at my home in Rio (Greece), full of all that I saw and experienced.